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Difficulty: TD with steep ice and grade IV-V rock. So, now let us turn our attention to what you have to consider before hitting this 4478 meter hill. You may want to try a more difficult route up the Matterhorn or have a look at Dufourspitze a few valleys away. At this point, it would be nice to give a brief historical overview of the climbing of Matterhorn, but so many others have done so before me, that Ill just refer to a good summary I found on Wikipedia. Dont think youre the only one crazy about this peak. Since the crowds are on Hörligrat, this route tends to be more dangerous in high-season. Org Hörnligrat: the normal route on the Swiss side. A whole lot less crowded but a bit more difficult.

Stuff like Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Dom and some of the more technical routes on these. So, its worth paying a visit on top of the many 4000 meter peaks in the area: Pollux, Castor, Dom, Jungrau and so on Youll need to acclimatize on one of them anyway and its a good idea to get into things fitness- and skill-wise.

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Youll find fixed ropes in a lot of the places, which will free you of some ropework, but if you go unguided, youll need cams just in case. Since youll be likely to deal a lot with crampons, I would have strong mountaineering boots, rather than trekking boots. Now, on to some specific stuff. Not in this sport, my friend! Stamina: on this mountain, speed is everything, man. When youre done and you still have a couple of days until youre flown home, you can always go for the more technical climbs in the region.

This list may not reflect recent changes. OK, of course, its not mandatory. But one things for sure. If youve gotten your hands dirty with mountaineering, then sooner or later youll want to nail one.

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